You Asked, He Answered: Nathan Johnson On Brightening Eye Makeup

Got a question for Project Runway makeup artist Nathan Johnson? Leave it in the comments!


dawn said...
I wear black eyeliner and black mascara every single day because all other colors make me look "tired." Any suggestions on how I can spice it up a little?

Tut, tut, tut. Have you been neglecting my cardinal rule: Do nothing before you complete the flawless foundation? I think you have.

Trust me, if you properly conceal and apply your foundation first, new eyeliner/mascara colors will flatter and make your eyes pop, not the opposite.

Now, let’s fix this for you quickly! First, before you put on your eyeliner (or anything else for that matter), I want you to conceal both under and over the eyes. If you have discoloration on either the upper or lower lid (both are very common) certain colors of liner, mascara and shadow will exacerbate the “tired” look.

The phenomenon is called color-grabbing. When you apply purples, browns, blues and other deeper colors around the eyes, they draw out darker shades that might be lurking just below the skin's surface. For example, when I wear maroon, my undereye circles pop right out and I look like the living dead. Now, if I conceal, the problem is solved and both my eyes and skin benefit from the richness of the hue.

I am willing to bet that you are the unknowing victim of color-grabbing. Save yourself and stop it in its tracks by starting with a flawless face. If concealer and foundation are more steps than you care to handle on a daily basis, meet me in the middle and just conceal. This one simple step will not only make you look younger and more well rested, it will quadruple the number of eye makeup options that you presently have.

TIP: When you conceal around the eyes, set it with a powder. The optic nerve generates so much heat that if you don’t set it, it will run and crease. My choice is Cover FX setting powder (it is mica and smooth as silk). I use an eyeshadow brush to be sure I have secured it well.

If undereye darkness is a BIG problem, discontinue mascara on the lower lashes (talk about color-grabbing). Instead, try a light brown liner on the outer third of the eye. This will give the illusion of a shadow cast by thick lower lashes. You can have the effect without drawing attention to the problem area. Makeup, after all, is an illusion. How’s that for spicy? Have fun!