You Asked, He Answered: Nathan Johnson On Foundation Application

Did you have a question for Project Runway's Nathan Johnson last week? He's got the answers!

BUT FIRST: In New York? Meet Nathan at the Cover FX event at Sephora on 34th street.

Christina said...
I have always had a hard time with foundation - how do I apply enough of it to cover my discolorations yet not make it mask-like?

Dear Christina,

This is a great question. One that I help lots of women with every week. Foundation, by principle, is like a great mystery. It is something everyone can benefit from but something no one should ever see. When it does its job properly, no one will know it's there.

To avoid the dreaded makeup mask, there is one thing you have to be certain of before you begin. Be sure that your foundation/concealer is right for you. It must be the right color, shade, undertone and texture. I know I just threw a huge assignment at you and if it seems like too much, don't be afraid to ask a professional (but trust yourself!) The foundation you choose should disappear seamlessly into your skin. Test it at the jawline; if you can see it, you have chosen the wrong shade.

Now Christina, after you read this, I want you to dig into that foundation drawer of yours, find the one that flawlessly disappears into your skin (throw all the others out) and follow these simple (I hope) steps.

First, prep your skin. Try Prep FX by Cover FX or Photo Finish by Smashbox. When you prep the canvas, you will use less product, it will look more natural and it will have greater glide for a more natural finish.

Second, apply one coat of your foundation. And, use a foundation brush! Trust me here, it is hygienic, it will use less product, and you will get a much better application. Not to mention, your fingers will just gobble up your makeup (what a waste of money). When applying, pay special attention to the mask of the face. By keeping the center clean and even you will draw attention to the eyes.

Third, using a fluffy brush, set the foundation with a powder that contains mica (not talc). I recommend the mica powder because it will allow you to smoothly apply a second layer of foundation. The powder with talc will grab additional layers leaving a blotchy or streaky finish.

Fourth, with a concealer brush, dab in additional coverage on the under eye circles and other visible discolorations. Lightly tap out the edges with your index finger. The heat from your skin will help to blend any harsh edges.

Fifth, set it again with the mica powder.

Sixth, repeat steps 4 and 5 as necessary until the discolorations are completely gone.

TIP: Setting FX, by Cover FX, is the only powder I ever use. It is a mica setting powder that is 100% mineral-based. It will give your skin the most radiant glow and allow you to flawlessly build layer after layer only where you need it. And huge bonus, it will not alter the color of your foundation and it will make it water resistant! No more staying out of the pool!

Christina, try this out. If you follow these steps, you will have a perfect even complexion, and that is where the fun with make up can really begin.